holiday cooking Archives

A Sweet Southern Treat

Catarah Coleman, left, and Shoneji Robison Photo Courtesy: SOUTHERN GIRL DESSERTS

Our favorite foods often make us think of “home,” especially near the holidays. Catarah Coleman and Shoneji Robison both grew up in Florida. After moving to L.A., Coleman founded Southern Girl Desserts, head-quartered in Baldwin Hills, and was soon joined by Coleman. The two brought their childhood with them.

In their homes, “Thanksgiving is a smorgasbord of desserts,” Coleman says. This means overflowing tables of cakes, trifle, banana pudding, ambrosia – and sweet potato pie. These southern girls, like most southerners, have their own take on this classic. “Everyone does their sweet potato pie a little different,” Coleman says. “If you like sweet potato pie, you’re going to love this recipe. It’s really easy to make. It doesn’t take a lot of ingredients.”

Coleman recommends using foil to protect the edge of your pie crust when par baking, and says the crust shouldn’t be cooked all the way through and should still be warm when you fill it.

The sweet potatoes or yams (they can be used interchangeably) are boiled whole because it’s easier than peeling them first. “Once the yams are soft and have boiled all the way through, the skin literally peels off,” Coleman says. “That’s the best way to get your yams cooked and peeled really quickly.” Finish the pie while the yams are still warm so all the ingredients come together easily.

The finished pie will hold at room temperature for a day, 3-4 days cooled and refrigerated or 8-10 weeks frozen (well wrapped).

Southern Girl Desserts Sweet Potato Pie

4 medium size yams or sweet potatoes 1 stick butter, melted
1¼ cup granulated sugar
1 cup brown sugar
2 teaspoons cinnamon
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
2 teaspoons lemon juice
3 medium eggs
1 9-inch pie crust, your favorite recipe or ready made

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Fit your crust into a pie pan and par bake no more than 10 minutes, or according to package instructions.

Boil the yams or sweet potatoes (unpeeled) until soft (usually 30-45 minutes). When cool enough to handle, peel them. Whisk the yams together with the butter, sugar, brown sugar, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, vanilla and lemon juice.

Add three cups of this mixture to a separate bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer. Add 2 eggs and mix until smooth (approximately 3-5 minutes). Remove any stringy pieces of yam from the mixture and discard.

Beat the remaining egg with 2 teaspoons of water. Brush this over the par-baked crust. Mix 1 teaspoon of cinnamon with the remaining ¼ cup of sugar and sprinkle this over the crust. Pour in the filling.

Bake the pie at 350 degrees for one hour. Allow to cool for one hour, then cut and serve.

Hooray for the holidays – lights, music, love, joy and a chance to spoil family and friends with delicious homemade food from your cozy kitchen.

What? Holiday cooking isn’t your absolute favorite thing to do? You avoid the kitchen most of the year, and get stressed out by the pressure to produce a festive meal?

Relax, take a deep breath and a different approach this year with these sweet recipes:

Baked Pumpkin Doughnuts with Buttermilk Glaze

Courtesy Sur la Table

These make a fun dessert – or a festive breakfast. If you don’t have a pastry bag, you can substitute a plastic bag with a hole cut in the corner. Leonard warns not to over-mix the batter, or the doughnuts will be tough.

Don’t love buttermilk? You can use regular milk in the glaze instead.

Yield: 12 medium or 24 mini doughnuts

3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

¼ teaspoon ground ginger

2 cups firmly packed light brown sugar

1 cup vegetable oil, plus more for preparing pans

3 cups pumpkin puree

2 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 ½ cups confectioners’ sugar, sifted

3 tablespoons buttermilk

Preheat oven to 350F. Grease 2 (6-cavity) doughnut pans and fit a large pastry bag with a half-inch round tip. Set aside.

In a large bowl, add flour, salt, baking powder, baking soda and spices; stir together and set aside.

In a medium bowl, add sugar, oil, pumpkin puree, eggs and vanilla; whisk to combine.

Add the wet mixture to the dry and fold into a smooth batter using a silicone spatula. Transfer batter to prepared pastry bag and fill each doughnut cavity halfway with batter.

Bake until the doughnuts spring back when lightly touched, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the oven and invert doughnuts onto a wire rack placed over a rimmed baking sheet.

Prepare the glaze. In a medium bowl, add confectioners’ sugar and buttermilk; whisk until smooth.

When the doughnuts are cool, spoon about 2 tablespoons of glaze over the top of each doughnut and allow glaze to set before serving, about 20 minutes.

Pecan Cheesecake

Courtesy Brooke Williamson

PHOTO COURTESY BROOKE WILLIAMSON

The unusual wrapping and baking process is to keep the cheesecake from cracking as it cools. If it does, you can hide cracks by decorating with whipped crème fraiche, candied pecans and sprinkles. Williamson says you can also substitute other types of nuts – or even crunchy cookies – for the pecans.

Yield: One 9-by-2-inch cheesecake

4 ounces graham cracker crumbs

9½ ounces sugar, divided

1½ ounces melted butter

2 6-ounce packages cream cheese, softened

3 eggs

1½ teaspoons vanilla

1½ teaspoons lemon juice

1¼ ounce cornstarch

½ teaspoon salt

5 ounces crème fraiche or sour cream

2 ounces finely chopped toasted pecans

Preheat the oven to 300F. Combine graham cracker crumbs, ½ ounce sugar and butter in a bowl. Press into the bottom of a greased 9-inch springform pan. Bake at 300°F for 5 minutes. Set aside.

Whisk together the remaining 9 ounces sugar, cornstarch and salt and set aside.

Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese on medium speed to soften and smooth out. Add the dry ingredients and beat on medium speed to combine, scraping bowl frequently.

Beat in the vanilla and lemon on low speed. With the mixer running on medium speed, beat in the eggs a few at a time, scraping the bowl frequently.

On low speed, beat in the crème fraiche and pecans until combined. Pour the batter onto the prepared crust. Wrap the entire pan tightly in aluminum foil, covering the top, bottom and sides.

Place the cheesecake in a large roasting pan, place in the preheated oven, and fill with hot water to halfway up the side of the pan. Bake in the water bath at 300°F until the cheesecake jiggles firmly at the center, about 60 minutes.

Turn off the oven, prop open the door and let the cheesecake cool inside for one hour. Let cool completely at room temperature, then chill thoroughly before removing springform and cutting and serving.

Spiced “Pumpkin” Fritters with Chocolate Sauce and Candied Pepitas

Courtesy Suzanne Goin

PHOTO COURTESY SUZANNE GOIN

The chocolate sauce can be made and the squash roasted three to four days ahead, and the pepitas and fritter batter a day ahead. If you make the batter ahead, refrigerate it before allowing it to rise, then remove from the fridge and proceed with the recipe from there.

Makes about 20 fritters

NOTE: While the fritter batter rises, prepare the chocolate sauce and fried pepitas.

½ kabocha or butternut squash, about 1 pound

¼ cup whole milk

2 teaspoons dry yeast

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground ginger

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

⅛ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

⅛ teaspoon ground cloves

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted, plus a little for the bowl

1 extra-large egg

⅔ cup dark-brown sugar

½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 cup granulated sugar

2 to 3 quarts vegetable oil, for frying

1 recipe Chocolate Sauce (recipe follows)

1 recipe Candied Pepitas (recipe follows)

Preheat the oven to 400F.

Cut the squash in half lengthwise and place on a baking sheet, cut side up. (Don’t remove the seeds yet; they give extra flavor.) Cover with foil and roast for about 1 hour, until very tender. Let cool for 10 minutes, then scoop out the seeds and discard them. Purée the warm squash through a ricer or food mill and measure out ½ cup. In a large bowl, heat ¼ cup water and the milk to body temperature. Sprinkle yeast evenly across the surface and allow the yeast to bloom for 10 to 15 minutes.

Whisk the flour, salt, ½ teaspoon cinnamon and the other spices together, then sprinkle across bloomed yeast. Make a well in the center and set aside.

Combine the squash purée, butter, egg, brown sugar and vanilla, then pour into the well of the dry ingredients. Fold together with a rubber spatula until incorporated; be careful not to over-mix the batter, or the fritters will be tough. (Some specks of flour are OK.) Lightly brush a large bowl with melted butter. Scrape batter into the bowl and flip the batter upside down, so that all sides are covered with a little of the melted butter.

Cover with plastic and allow the batter to rise in a warm, draft-free place for about 1 hour, until doubled in size. Let the batter rest for at least 1 hour more in the refrigerator, and then bring it to room temperature when you are ready to fry. (Chilling the batter in the fridge develops the flavor and creates more tender fritters.) Combine 1 cup granulated sugar with the remaining 1 teaspoon cinnamon in a large bowl and set aside. Heat the oil to 350F on a deep-frying thermometer, over medium heat, in a heavy, wide-bottomed pan.

Scoop heaping tablespoons of batter, and use a second spoon to push rounded spoonfuls into the hot oil. Don’t overcrowd the pan; the fritters shouldn’t touch each other. Fry for 2 to 3 minutes, until deep golden brown on all sides.

Drain the fritters on paper towels and pat to remove any excess oil. While they’re still hot, toss fritters in the bowl with cinnamon-sugar mixture. Pile the fritters up on a platter or divide among six dessert plates. Drizzle with ¾ cup chocolate sauce, sprinkle with candied pepitas and serve remaining chocolate sauce on the side for dipping.

Chocolate Sauce

Makes about 1 cup

3 ounces 68% dark chocolate

3 tablespoons sugar

¼ cup good-quality unsweetened cocoa powder

Chop the chocolate into small chunks and place in a large bowl.

In a saucepan, combine the sugar with 2/3 cup water and bring to a boil. Add the cocoa powder to the boiling water and whisk to combine. Bring to a boil again, whisking constantly, then immediately pour the water over the chopped chocolate and let sit for 1 minute to melt the chocolate. Whisk together until combined, working from the inside out, to emulsify the mixture. Cool to room temperature.

Candied Pepitas

¼ teaspoon cumin seeds

2 teaspoons unsalted butter

½ cup raw pumpkin seeds

1 tablespoon sugar

Generous pinch each of kosher salt, ground cinnamon, freshly grated nutmeg and ground cloves

1 teaspoon honey

Toast the cumin seeds in a small pan over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until the seeds release their aroma and are lightly browned. Pound them coarsely in a mortar.

Melt the butter in the cumin pan over medium heat. Add the pumpkin seeds and sugar, then sprinkle the salt and spices over them. Toss the pumpkin seeds to coat them well with the butter. Cook for a few minutes, until just after they begin to pop and color slightly.

Turn off the heat and wait for 30 seconds. Add the honey, tossing well to coat the pumpkin seeds. Spread on a plate, and let them cool.

Excerpted from “the a.o.c. cookbook” by Suzanne Goin. Copyright 2013 by Suzanne Goin. Excerpted by permission of Knopf, a division of Random House LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.